PASCUALES, COLIMA
Pascuales is a surfing destination and beach tourism destination for residents of the state of Colima. At least it looks that way from all the large restaurants on the beach with plastic tables and chairs. But it's curious because in the two weeks I spent there I never really saw anyone in any of these restaurants or any tourism outside of surfing. Pascuales is a sprawling black sand beach on the Pacific Ocean in the small state of Colima. It is home to one of my favorite waves in Mexico. It's an uncrowded version of Zicatela, Puerto Escondidos pipeline, and in my opinion can be just as good. Even a little more friendly. It's a large, big wave and tow friendly beach break. The wave breaks in only a few feet of water and packs an absolute punch with it. But the barrels are things you will talk about for years. They are big, you're in it before you even have the time to decide if you want to pull in, and a lot of the times, especially when it's bigger, it tends to let you out. Beware of the sand here; it is hot as hell. Surfers running to the water from the shade of the hotels is a common and daily sight. It's some of the most fun surfing that I have done in my life. It will be going off in the mornings most of the year, and even bigger during wave season in the summer. It's certainly a consequential wave though. Certainly not for beginners, or even people getting up to advanced. It's a technical, scary, heavy, fast, boardsnapping big wave. My first session all 5 of us who paddled out came out bleeding in one way shape or form, but the road is worth the toll. Outside of surfing there is literally nothing to do here. You just sit around and drink ballenas with the locals (the 1.5L large beer bottles). Chat with your new friends who are staying at the hotel, nap, and do it all over again the next day. — What any surf bum is looking for, really. It's located near a town called Tecoman, which depending on who you ask could be considered one of the most dangerous towns in Mexico. But we went there for a night out once and were totally fine. So don't believe the stupid stories that you hear. That's not to say you should be stupid; this place can be very unsafe, but be kind, don't be an idiot, and you should have no problem. Maybe keep an extra eye on your things and find someone to pay when you are camping somewhere. In general, that's a good rule for coastal central Mex.
Pascuales is pretty deep, to be honest. If you're making it here then I salute you, it's real Mexico traveling. You're in central Mexico, far from any of the tourist destinations or major airports. The physical location of Pascuales is about 6 miles or 10kms west of the town of Tecoman off of route 200. To get there from the North, you will take route 200 down from Puerto Vallarta or 54D from Guadalajara. Once you get to Tecoman, you take an exit and head straight over to Pascuales down a long straight beautiful palm tree lined road.
It's a long drive; about 5 and a half hours. There's not a whole lot to do in between these places and Pascuales. Well of course there are things to stop and see, but nothing that really jumps out. If you are in your own vehicle, get a jump on it early. Make sure you have enough time to make it into town by dark because it's not the kind of place I would want to be pulling into under the cover of darkness personally. There will be roadblocks and checkpoints, both military and otherwise in the area.
There are buses as well, that will take you to Tecoman. From there you can pick up a little collectivo that will take you into Pascuales. Surf tourism is normal in this part of Mexico, so no one is going to look at you weird if you have boards on the bus or whatever. I also met a lot of people who took the hitchhiking route to get from place to place in this area. It wasn't how I traveled, but I never heard any bad stories. In fact, they were all pretty good.
If you are flying in, probably the best way to get here would be to just fly into the Manzanillo airport. That's how most people who come down for strike missions or shorter trips do it. Manzanillo is only an hour and a half from Pascuales. It's a big town, Manzanillo, hence the international airport there. but from the airport you can take a taxi or bus to get yourself down to Pascuales.
HOSTELS, CAMPING, AND HOTELS (IF ANY)
This is the spot to stay if you ask me. It's directly in front of the wave, and right at the entrance of town. This is also where a majority of surfers are staying. The rooms are pretty cheap, and they have a little campground out front. As well as allowing car camping in the parking lot for 50 pesos per night. It has everything that you need; a hose for after surfing, it's next to the best restaurant in town, and a convenience store to buy your beer. —Also a surf shop, if you can call it that, in the front office selling leashes, boards, and helping with ding repairs. Broken leashes and boards are commonplace here. Ballenas, or whales, the word for the liters of Pacifico is the law of the land here. At least 1 per day.
There are a few hotels here in town and one that I found to be the one to stay. Additionally, the only other real option for accommodation is camping. If you are camping I would recommend staying somewhere where you are paying someone for something. I for example just slept in my truck in the parking lot of the hotel, which worked great for me. But I was paying a few bucks a night. You're buying safety, and it's worth it.
A few of the hotel options that are popular are below. People also camped down to the south off of the Malecon Playa El Real. — A large, and frankly very random malecon along the beach here.
Now from what I heard this was the place to be back in the day. It was where all the surfers came and stayed and it was awesome. It's right next door to the Hotel Real de Pascuales and with that being said, also directly in front of the wave. But I heard that the old owner died, and that the place has kind of gone to hell from a quality perspective. It's another good option though.
EATS
I really only ate at two places the entire time that I was here. There's a restaurant next door to the hotels that pretty much the entire world goes to for breakfast before surfing, or after.
Then some local food that you can get for dinner. Don't expect to be blown away by the food here, but it's actually pretty good. Options are very limited, but that's okay.
If you want to cook your own food here, go into Tecoman to get your supplies. The shops are very small here and will be expensive; not to mention, limited.
This is really the spot in town. Next to the hotels. Almost all the surfers have breakfast and lunch here. The food is really good. The beer is cheap. But don't expect to be served fast. You're on their time. Made with love. Hecho con amor.
There is a lady making really good quesadillas across the street from the hotels. Not sure about her schedule, but when she is open you should go. Hand pressed tortillas — and delicious. Best option for dinner.
There is a small little taco place that has no name, that is pretty much connected to the Hotel Real. They were only open at night when I was there, but the tacos were good and cheap. I only have a picture of the table at this place. But you know by that table it'll be good.
Restaurants
NIGHTLIFE
Sitting around and drinking beers with all the other surfers, maybe the occasional bonfire on the beach. If you are feeling frisky you can head into Tecoman for a night out. But that's not for the faint of heart. It's surfing, drinking until you're tired, waking up early and doing it all again here. That's pretty much life.
SIGHTS
Nothin'. The wave.
SURFING
THE WAVE. So that is literally the only reason why anyone would come to Pascuales. Outside of the Colima state tourists who are coming down to the beach for the day or for the weekend. But the wave at Pascuales, it really is just one wave. You can technically surf a little to the north at the river-mouth or down to the south in front of the malecon el real but really the wave is the one out front of the hotels. It's an epic, huge at times; a frame barrel in both directions. When it's big it has to be one of the best big beach break barreling waves anywhere around. On par with Zicatela; just way harder to get to, in a more dangerous part of the country, with about 5% of the people.
This wave is not for the faint of heart. I will repeat what I said above. It's not for beginners. Or even intermediate surfers. The wave breaks in only a few feet of water and packs an absolute punch with it. But the barrels are things you will talk about for years. They are big, you're in it before you even have the time to decide if you want to pull in, and a lot of the times, especially when it's bigger, it tends to let you out. Beware of the sand here — it is hot as hell. Surfers running to the water from the shade of the hotels is a common and daily sight.
It's some of the most fun surfing that I have done in my life. It will be going off in the mornings most of the year, and even bigger during wave season in the summer. It's certainly a consequential wave though. Certainly not for beginners, or even people getting up to advanced. It's a technical, scary, heavy, fast, boardsnapping big wave. My first session, all 5 of us who paddled out came out bleeding in one way shape or form, but the road is worth the toll. Wind usually gets on it by mid morning and ruins it, so it's a morning session here and that's about it. Get your waves in, in the morning.